Among gastronomic disputes in Italy, one of the most heated and difficult debates to resolve regards the recipe for eggplant parmigiana. In fact, the origins of this extraordinary dish are quite dubious: It is disputed by Sicily, Naples, and Parma. What’s the truth? Let’s take a journey back in time.
Where does the word ‘parmigiana’ come from?
The eggplant arrived in Italy during the 15th century – when the Arabs brought it from India. This part of the story already takes us to Sicily: According to this thesis, the city of Parma has nothing to do with it – not even the Parmigiano Reggiano cheese. This version states that the term actually derives from the Sicilian word ‘parmiciana,’ the little wooden strips that form a shutter – recalling the partially overlapping arrangment of fried eggplant used in the dish.
That’s not all, though; others claim that the term ‘parmigiana’ comes directly from ‘petronciana,’ a term of Persian origin used for the eggplant when it first arrived in Southern Europe, before becoming the more Italian ‘mela insana’ (or ‘unhealthy apple’ in English). To support this thesis, we can cite no Artusi, who at the end of the 19th century officially gave it its current name. In any case, the primitive Sicilian parmigiana must have been a dish very similar to the Turkish moussaka, made of eggplants fried in oil and sprinkled with pecorino cheese and other seasonings. A fascinating and realistic thesis, though undocumented: At that time, ‘parmigiana’ was only hinted at by Simone de'Prodenzani, but the recipe did not reach us.
Parmigiana at court
The first historical evidence of the parmigiana is found in “Cuoco galante” (1733) by Vincenzo Corrado, a cook from Puglia who served the most important aristocratic families of 18th century in Naples. In his recipe, however, Corrado uses zucchini instead of eggplant – fried in lard, seasoned with parmesan cheese and butter and baked in the oven. More similar to today's recipe is the one described in 1839 by Ippolito Cavalcanti in his “Cusina casarinola co la lengua napolitana” that explains: "You will fry the eggplants and then arrange them in a baking pan layer by layer with the cheese, basil and stew broth or with tomato sauce and you will let them stew.”
The ducal history of the parmigiana
The use of parmesan cheese – that probably arrived at a later stage as an alternative to pecorino cheese (plus the Neapolitan addition of mozzarella) – and the apparently clear reference to the Emilian city of Parma gives us reason to lean towards the birth of eggplant parmigiana having occurred in Parma. And that's not all: In the 15th and 16th centuries, "cooking the Parmigiani way" was a phrase that referred to the custom of preparing vegetables in layers. Just as you would with eggplant parmigiana. Meanwhile, from the 17th century onwards, "cooking Parmigiana style" simply became synonymous with the use of the famous cheese in recipe books.
What a riddle!
In short, a fine riddle to solve! However, the current diffusion of the dish, the eggplant imported from the Arabs and all the smaller clues left behind by history suggest a Sicilian origin – with a subsequent landing in Naples as a natural consequence of the Neapolitan domination of the island (similar to orice and almond paste, as well). And then there’s a further connection with the Bourbons, the dynasty of Spanish origin: Before arriving in Naples in 1734 (for a complex game of dynastic alliances), the area was first governed by the Duchy of Parma and Piacenza. In short, maybe the Sicilians and the Parmigiani met in Naples to create the great classic that is the parmigiana!
Pictures by Giandomenico Frassi and Beatrice Prada
FAQs
Parmigiana
| Place of origin | Italy |
|---|
| Region or state | Campania Sicily Apulia Calabria |
| Main ingredients | Eggplant, mozzarella, Parmesan, tomato sauce |
| Variations | Chicken, veal, shrimp, meatball |
| Media: Parmigiana |
1 more rowBelieved to have originated in India, the eggplant was introduced to Sicily (and later, Europe at large) with the Arab domination of the 9th century—and quickly went from being an exotic curiosity to a staple of the Sicilian diet.
What does parmigiana mean in Italian? ›
The dish is claimed by both Campania and Sicily. While "parmigiana" means "from Parma" (in Northern Italy), the dish is not part of Parma food. It is based on melanzane alla parmigiana (alt. parmigiana di melanzane) or eggplant parmigiana (or eggplant Parmesan), a classic Southern Italian dish.
Which is healthier, chicken parmesan or eggplant parmesan? ›
Eggplant parmesan tends to be lighter on the stomach and is considered to be more healthy. Eggplant is also less expensive. Restaurants find that it is a much cheaper option for guests.
Do they eat eggplant parm in Italy? ›
Two Southern Italian regions, Puglia (the heel of the boot) and Campania (home of Naples), have their own versions of Eggplant Parmigiana, as recorded in La Cucina: The Regional Cooking of Italy. For the recipe from Puglia, the eggplant is dipped in egg, dredged in flour and fried.
What is the history and origin of eggplant? ›
Food historians have traced eggplants to their origins in either India or China. Some records show that eggplants were cultivated as early as 50 BCE. Travelers carried the fruit west to Europe, then eventually it arrived in America, thanks to Thomas Jefferson bringing seeds back from France.
Which came first, eggplant parm or chicken parm? ›
The ancestor of chicken parm is melanzane alla parmigiana, or eggplant parm. Eggplant parm was known as a "la cucina povera” dish, which means "from the kitchen of the poor". It was based on eggplant, often grown in local gardens, combined with ingredients that even the poorest of families would have on hand.
Why do Italians eat eggplant? ›
Originally from India, the eggplant was widely used in North Africa, from where the Moors took it to Sicily. While the eggplant became a “much-loved staple food” for the Sicilians, Nacamulli says, it was regarded with suspicion and looked down on by central and northern Italians.
Is there a difference between parmesan and parmigiana? ›
Parmesan Cheese in Italy
In the European Union, “parmesan” is accepted as a translation of Parmigiano-Reggiano. Within these countries, the two terms refer to the same cheese.
What does piccata mean in Italian? ›
Piccata, though, is an Italian word meaning larded. It seems to be a translation of the French word pique (sharp, as in piquant). When used in a reference to a way of preparing food (particularly meat or fish) it means sliced and sauteed in a sauce containing lemon, butter, and spices.
-- all of these are big diet busters. This one may not be a big surprise; eggplant parmesan is fried. But it is surprising to see how much more fat the eggplant has compared to the pizza -- almost all the fat the average person on a 2,000 calorie diet is supposed to consume in one day ( 65 grams).
Is it better to peel eggplant for eggplant parmesan? ›
Do you have to peel eggplant before you cook it? The peel of an eggplant is completely edible. However, as the eggplant grows bigger and matures, the peel may become tough and bitter. People often prefer to peel larger eggplants because of this, but smaller eggplants do just fine unpeeled.
Why is eggplant parmesan so high in calories? ›
Eggplant parmigiana, or eggplant parmesan, is an Italian food made from layers of deep-fried slices of eggplant, tomato sauce and mozzarella cheese. Although it's considered a vegetarian dish, eggplant parmesan is traditionally made with full-fat mozzarella and parmesan cheese, making it high in calories and fat.
Which country invented eggplant? ›
Eggplants originated in China and India and have been cultivated there for thousands of years. The Spanish Moors introduced the eggplant into southern and Eastern Europe where it became very popular. The early explorers of the New World introduced eggplant into the Americas in the 1500s, but the plant never caught on.
Where is parmesan native from? ›
The first record of Parmigiano-Reggiano is from 1254. Legend has it, that around 900 years ago, Benedictine monks, living in the Parma-Reggio region of Italy, created this cheese when they needed to find a way to extend the shelf-life of the large quantity of milk they were producing.
Where did the eggplant come from in Africa? ›
S. macrocarpon originated from West Africa, but is now widely distributed in Central and East Africa. The plant also grows in the Caribbean, South America, and some parts of Southeast Asia.
