Root Pruning Pots - The Big Deal and The Big Difference (2024)

Technology in container growing has come a long way. Some may think a pot is just a pot. But in truth, today, it is not. Growers are turning to air root pruning pots for cost savings and increased revenue.

With the latest technology, container growing is one of the most economical and efficient production methods when all factors and costs are considered AND with less risk and less labor.

If you’re a commercial grower, then no matter what you are growing, it’s crucial for you to pay close attention to root structure formation. That’s because a better root structure leads to plants that grow faster and healthier. This leads to more salable plants, plants ready for sale earlier in the season, and that are better equipped to survive transplant by the consumer. For you, the grower, you’ll enjoy a growing reputation for selling healthy, vital plants—and that will lead to future sales.

So how do you create that healthy root structure? Smooth walled plastic nursery pots are commonly used—but they’re problematic because they cause root circling. When plants become root bound, a couple of issues can arise. When roots are left to circle, this can lead to an eventual decline in health. The plant will struggle to take in enough nutrients and water, which can lead to stunted growth, yellowing leaves, and a host of other issues. In some cases, if a plant is badly root bound, it may strangle and die. During transplant, consumers may be tempted to cut a badly bound root ball to encourage new root growth—and that can lead to a severe case of transplant shock.

For commercial growers, container root pruning is the best option, and there are three different techniques depending on the container: air root pruning (fabric/plastic), root entrapment (fabric), and root constriction (fabric). Which method is best for you? That will depend on a variety of factors. Read below to learn about these three types of container root pruning techniques to help you decide.

Air Root Pruning

Air root pruning relies on air to prune the roots. In other words, whether you’re using fabric air pruning pots or plasticair pruning pots (also referred to as plastic aeration containers), there must be space around the outside of the plant’s primary container. When roots grow through the pot, exposure to air dehydrates them, which causes them to drop off so that the roots self-prune themselves rather than circling until the plant becomes root-bound. That self-pruning will stimulate fibrous, lateral root growth 4-inches back from where the root is self-pruned.

With this technology, it is crucial to remember that airflow is key. One common mistake that nurseries and other growers have made is to inadvertently cut off the airflow required to prune roots. Sometimes this happens with pot-in-pot or socket pot production methods at tree farms, and sometimes it happens when space is at a premium and growers pack plants closely together to fit more into a smaller area. When something like this happens, you’ve essentially replicated the conditions of a smooth-walled plastic nursery pot. With limited airflow, roots circle inside the containers rather than self-pruning. If you rely on air root pruning to create a healthy root structure, make sure there is plenty of room around the pots for air to circulate. If that is not possible, you will want to look for fabric air pruning pots that are manufactured with a tighter weave resulting in a root entrapment technique, which provides the same root pruning benefits as air pruning, but accounts for the lack of air circulation.

Root Entrapment

Root entrapment works by trapping root tips, preventing them from growing through the fabric while stimulating those roots to create branches. This root pruning pot still relies on air pruning of roots. The difference is the roots are air pruned before penetrating the fabric sidewalls. Both this technique and the root constriction technique rely on fabric pots with a very tight fabric weave. If you’re using loose weave containers, then as mentioned above, closely packed containers or a tightly packed yard will allow roots to grow through the fabric pots causing roots to circle in a socket pot production method. Loose weave pots require plenty of air circulation around the pots for the roots to self-prune.

Because a tightly woven pot won’t really leak, you’ll retain a lot more water and more nutrients, too. Quality is key here. While it may be tempting to save on initial expenses by purchasing cheaper, lesser quality fabric pots, high-quality fabric pots will actually save you more in the long term by preventing water and nutrient loss.

Root Constriction

This method of root pruning allows small roots to grow through knit fabric base, but relies on the specially designed fabric to constrict those roots, preventing them from expanding too much. You’ll often see this technique used in conjunction with field soil. Plants are placed in fabric pots, which are situated directly onto the bare ground so that the roots can grow through the knit base fabric into the surrounding soil—but the small hole openings of the knit fabric prevent the root system from growing too large, which in turn prevents damage to the plant when it comes time to transplant. This is useful for nurseries who do want some of the plant’s roots to grow into the soil either for extra stabilization in the field, or for nutrient and water uptake. So which root pruning pot technique is best for your operation? It really depends on your production method. For pot-in-pot or socket pot growing methods, root entrapment may be the best bet—and you’ll have a choice between fabric bags or pots featuring a tight enough weave for root entrapment to happen. But if your growing operation relies on giving plants some level of access to soil, then root constriction may be the best choice. All fabric pots will provide air root pruning; however the tighter weaved fabrics will also provide nutrient and water savings. Weigh each technique carefully to choose what is right for your grow operation. If chosen correctly, the end result with all root pruning pots will be the same – a healthy, dense, fibrous root system.

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Root Pruning Pots - The Big Deal and The Big Difference (2024)

FAQs

Root Pruning Pots - The Big Deal and The Big Difference? ›

Root entrapment works by trapping root tips, preventing them from growing through the fabric while stimulating those roots to create branches. This root pruning pot still relies on air pruning of roots. The difference is the roots are air pruned before penetrating the fabric sidewalls.

What are root pruning pots? ›

Air pruning containers, however, stop the root's growth at the wall of the container so that instead of wrapping around the wall, it sends out offshoots along its length, creating a stronger, more dispersed structure with many more root tips for accessing water and nutrients.

What is the 4 inch rule? ›

Anyone that has ever pruned shrubs or trees to make a hedge has experienced the '4-inch rule'. It has long been known that when a twig or branch is cut, branching occurs, but did you notice where? Typically from the point of the pruning cut and extending back about 4 inches.

Is root pruning good? ›

Root pruning may be necessary to minimize damage to the tree's root system during construction or in preparation for large tree transplanting. Improper root pruning and root damage from excavation can cause great harm to a tree which may affect tree health and/or structural stability.

What are the best practices for root pruning? ›

Root pruning shall be done with a sharp tool, in such a way that does not pull on the roots, but leaves smooth cuts. It is preferable to expose the roots prior to root pruning. After pruning, fill the area with quality topsoil and water until thoroughly soaked. Once exposed, roots must be covered within 8 hours.

What are the disadvantages of root pruning? ›

Here are some problems you may run into when you prune roots:
  • Trees that have been root pruned are easily stressed and need careful watering and feeding until their roots have re-grown. A heat wave after root pruning can be disastrous.
  • Trees may die if too many roots are pruned particularly during a warm dry year.

What pots are best for root growth? ›

Fabric or geotextile pots

Fabric pots stand out for their innovative design and functionality. They are made of permeable materials that allow excellent aeration and drainage, which is essential for healthy root development.

Which type of pruning should be avoided and why? ›

No Flush Cuts

While it may look clean and streamlined, a flush cut removes the branch collar, an area of tissue that's needed to form a seal over the pruning cut. Because the plant cannot close over the wound, a flush cut leaves an opening for pests and pathogens to enter the plant and damage or kill it.

What is the 1 3 rule for pruning? ›

2. Follow the 1/3 rule. Many people are intimidated when they try to think about how much they can prune without damaging the shrub's health and vigor. When making pruning decisions, keep in mind that you can safely remove up to one-third of the plant's growth at any one time.

What is the objective of root pruning? ›

The aim of root pruning is to cut both fine and large roots to reduce the absorption of water and nutrients, whilst also changing the hormone balance – resulting in an overall reduction in shoot growth.

What time of year is best to root prune? ›

Timing. Root pruning should be carried out while the trees are fully dormant between November and February and no later than six weeks before the anticipated bud burst.

Can you cut long roots when repotting? ›

Roots packed tightly in a pot don't take up nutrients efficiently. To promote good nutrient absorption, trim the roots and loosen up the root ball before replanting. Use a sharp knife or pruning shears for this job, removing as much as the bottom third of the root ball if necessary.

How to root prune potted plants? ›

Here are the steps they recommend:
  1. Loosen the soil around the pot walls with a knife.
  2. Tap around the rim with a rubber mallet and then pull the plant free – OR:
  3. float the root ball out by forcing water from a hose through the drainage hole.
  4. Examine the root ball and trim any twisted roots.

How do you root prune container trees? ›

Here are the basic steps you'll see in this video:
  1. Remove the plant from its pot. ...
  2. Cut away the outer soil and roots. ...
  3. Loosen up the root system. ...
  4. Trim off up to a third of the root ball if needed. ...
  5. Repot your plant at the same depth.

Are air pruning pots good? ›

The Benefits of a Better Rootball

Another benefit of air pruning is improved aeration and drainage via the holes in the container wall. If, for example, you over-irrigate, the excess water drains out so the plant is not sat wet and unhappy as long.

How to use rootmaker pots? ›

Yes, Simply set the container on the surface of the soil and fill with a soilless mix. As roots grow out the holes in the ledges in the sides, they will be air-root-pruned. Yet the roots that grow through the holes in the bottom will extend into the soil below and both anchor the plant and accelerate growth.

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