Keith PandolfiCincinnati Enquirer
Cincinnati’s sandwich culture has always been hard for me to describe. Yes, we have our double-deckers and our steak hoagies, which many of us love and cherish. What we're lacking, though, is a true signature sandwich along the lines of the Philly steak and cheese, the Chicago Italian beef or the New Orleans po'boy.
That said, we do have plenty of great sandwiches, many of them inspired by other cities, countries and regions – including a terrific torta in Florence, a riff on a popular Korean street food sandwich off Court Street and even a Buffalo-inspired beef on weck in Over-the-Rhine.
Years ago, my predecessor, Polly Campbell, put together what she dubbed a local sandwich hall of fame. And I enjoyed her takes so much that I decided to copy it. Some of these sandwiches mirror Polly's own selections. But I split my list into two self-explanatory categories: "The Classics" and the "The New School." (I'm also keeping burgers, tacos and hot dogs off the list since each deserves its own category.)
Please note that I plan to build on this list in the future. So if there's a sandwich you feel was robbed, feel free to email me and let me know. Also, keep in mind that all of the prices of these sandwiches are subject to change.
THE CLASSICS
The Lunch Meat Hoagie – Fessler's
This classic Greater Cincinnati hoagie from Fessler’s, which up until 2016 was part of the local Pasquale's chain of pizzerias, is a thing of beauty. It is stuffed with old-school deli meats including Dutch loaf, pickle loaf, leona and salami, baked until it's burnin' hot and topped with thinly sliced onions, lots of pickles, Italian dressing and tangy tomato sauce. What really puts this sandwich over the top, though, is the bread, which is brushed with garlic butter and sprinkled with coarse salt, making it all the more savory and delicious.
$7.99, 343 Fairfield Ave., Bellevue, 859-261-2233, fesslerspizza.com.
The Little Italy – J&W Sandwich Shoppe
J&W owner Andy Vuozzo and his team have engineered their version of an Italian sub just right. The Little Italy is stuffed tidily with genoa salami, ham, capicola and provolone cheese and topped with iceberg lettuce, tomato, onion and banana peppers. It's all served up on a hoagie roll that's both soft and sturdy. Good Italian subs are hard to come by in this town, but J&W fills the void. (Their double-deckers are also outstanding.)
$6, 2004 Worth Ave., Norwood, 513-631-9755, jwsandwichnorwood.com.
The Baked Buddy – LaRosa’s
One thing I've learned since moving back to Cincinnati is that LaRosa's pizza can be polarizing (and that if you're one of those people who don't like it, you are categorically wrong). Still, no matter how you feel about the pizza, this Italian hoagie from LaRosa's is an underrated classic that everyone should agree on. The Buddy is a perfectly constructed sandwich that packs plenty of spicy, meaty flavor in a tidy little package. It's stuffed with capicola, pepperoni and salami and topped with pizza sauce, tomato slices and lots of crunchy pickles. I'll even go out on a limb to say that, just as LaRosa's offers Cincinnati's most iconic pizza, it might also be home to the city's most iconic sandwich.
Price varies. Several locations throughout Greater Cincinnati, 513-347-1111, larosas.com.
The Chicken Salad Sandwich – Silverglades
There’s something comfortingly 1990s about this classic chicken salad masterpiece from Silverglades. It takes me back to the days when sandwich shops like Darci's ruled the land with their croissant sandwiches filled with meat or egg salads (albeit without the addictive dill oyster crackers that always made Darcy's a Cincinnati favorite). Thankfully, that era is alive and well at Silverglades where this sandwich continues to be a favorite among Cincinnatians thanks to its curiously fluffy chicken salad (the recipe is proprietary, but I assume they use whipping cream to give it that bounce).Note that sandwiches are only available at Silverglade's Downtown location, not the one at Findlay Market.
$9.49, 236 E. Eighth St., Downtown, 513-361-0600, silvergladesdeli.com.
The Double Decker – the Silverton Cafe
As I mentioned above, Cincinnati is known for its double-decker sandwiches, which gained popularity in its Greek diners and chili parlors. But I’ll pick the Silverton Cafe for the hall of fame because it was technically born here.According to local legend (as well as some less dubious newspaper accounts), the double-decker was invented at the Marathon Inn, in Silverton, which later changed its name to the Silverton Cafe. That’s where owner Harry Sarros, a Greek immigrant, served up some of the city’s most memorable versions, including his signature Hippo, a triple-decker with roast beef,ham and cheese that is still served at a few local diners and chili parlors today, the most famous being Price Hill Chili.
$8.99-$10.49, 7201 Montgomery Road, Silverton, 513-791-2922, thesilvertoncafe.com.
The Goetta and Egg Sandwich – Finke’s
There are quite a few good goetta, egg and cheese sandwiches in this town (Eckerlin Meats among them). But I’ll hand this year's hall of fame induction over to Finke’s. Why? You ask. Well, just as the double-decker was invented at the Silverton Cafe, Finke’s is where goetta first came into being. But Finke's isn't just resting on its historic laurels, the goetta served here is among the best I've had, making this sandwich a goetta lover's dream come true.
Bill Finke & Sons, 1502 Amsterdam Road, Fort Wright, 859-261-8899.
The Reuben – Izzy's
Of course, Izzy's Reuben made my list. That's because I know how large Izzy Kadetz's creation looms in the hearts and bellies of this city. Is Izzy's Reuben the world's best, as the restaurant touts on its menu? I'm guessing anyone who's ever visited Katz's deli in New York would beg to differ. But with its succulent corned beef, melted Swiss, Russian-style dressing and sauerkraut, it's a sandwich Cincinnati should be proud of.
Whole: $12.49; half $10.99. Multiple locations, izzys.com.
THE NEW SCHOOL
The Smoked Turkey Sandwich – the Pickled Pig
In Walnut Hills, Belarus-born chef Gary Leybman offers all things pickled, fermented and smoked, making for one of the most interesting deli cases in town. He also knows how to make one hell of a sandwich. His smoked turkey sandwich is among his most popular offerings, and it's easy to see why. The meat is smoked right out back before it’s topped with Leybman's house-made sauerkraut, tomme cheese from Urban Stead (also located in Walnut Hills) and slathered with Russian dressing. It’s all served on a rustic sourdough rye bread.I have a hard time driving down this part of McMillan without stopping in for one.
$12, 645 E. McMillan St., Walnut Hills, smokedandpickled.com.
The Fried Sandwich – Mid-City Restaurant
The only sandwich on this list that you'll likely eat with a fork and knife, the fried sandwich at Mid-City is inspired by gilgeori, a popular Korean street food sandwich stuffed with cabbage, eggs and vegetables. Mid-City’s version riffs on the original by stacking a fried egg, fried squash, leeks and Mahon cheese between two slices of white grocery store bread that’s grilled and topped with black garlic and a pillow of manchego cheese. It's one of my favorite sandwiches in town, something I'm keen to remind the staff at Mid-City every time I visit so they won't ever take it off the menu.
$10, 40 E. Court St., Downtown, midcitycinti.com.
The Tropicana Torta – La Torta Loca
Edgar de la Cruz and Karina Presti are the owners of this outstanding Mexican/Venezuelan restaurant, with two locations in Florence. All of their tortas are excellent, but the one I flock here for is the Tropicana, a big, sloppy mess of a sandwich stuffed with chicken, pineapple, chipotle and a blend of Mexican cheeses.
$11.75, 8645 Haines Drive, Florence, 859-777-7459, latortalocaflorence.com.
The Beef on Weck – The Pony
It might sound odd naming such a Buffalo mainstay in a Cincinnati sandwich hall of fame. But I think the beef on weck at The Pony has big enough of a local following to qualify. And since one of The Pony’s owners, Tom Stephens, is a Buffalo native, it also has cred. Stephens slow-cooks his roast beef and hand-carves it before placing it on a kummelweck roll that's airy on the inside and studded with pretzel salt and caraway seeds on the outside. The top half of the roll is dipped in the roast beef’s jus and served with a side of horseradish that is meant to be applied liberally.
$11, 1346 Main St., Over-the-Rhine, 513-954-8415.
The Country Ham Sandwich – Kentucky MillstoneCafe
This might be the simplest sandwich on my list, but, boy, does it pack a punch. Kentucky Millstone Cafe serves some of the most honest and authentic Southern food in Greater Cincinnati and this sandwich is the kind of comfort food you'd imagine a Kentucky grandmother bringing to a family reunion, a small wedding or even a funeral. The ham is sourced from Browning's, in Dry Ridge, and topped with a zig-zag of mustard. It used to be served on a house-made ciabatta, but the Millstone recently changed that to pretzel roll, which makes it even better.
$7, 201 Mill St., Butler, Kentucky, 859-955-9099, kymillstone.com.
The Broccoli Rabe Sandwich – Daylily
This is by far my favorite vegetarian sandwich in town. Broccoli rabe, also known as rapini, is a bitter green that's closely related to the turnip, though it has a nutty, broccoli-like taste. Lucky for me, it's my favorite cruciferousvegetable of all time. Daylily, the newish bodega and sandwich shop owned by Jose Salazar, sautees it with caramelized onions, gooeys it up with smoked gouda and serves it on multigrain bread. The result is a bitter, smoky and addictive sandwich that, despite being a rookie on the sandwich scene, has already achieved hall of fame status.
$9.25, 3751 Eastern Ave., Columbia Tusculum, daylilydeli.com.
