Work in batches. The Latke Lady preps one batch at a time, which makes about 18 latkes. It may sound counterintuitive, but if you try to peel a hugenumber of potatoes in the beginning, they will brown.
Ask for help. The mass production of Model T Fords inspired theinvention of assembly lines. The mass production of latkes deserves noless. Latke lady has a friend or family member weigh, peel, and dice thepotatoes and onions for her next batch while she blends and fries thecurrent batch.
Avoid browning. When peeled, potatoes begin immediately to oxidizeand turn brown. One of the tricks to reduce discoloration is squeezing out all of the potato water (See tip #7). Another trick is grinding the potatoes with onions; they help keep the potato mixture white. More onions are added later for flavor.
Squeeze 'em. Once you've ground the potatoes and onions, turn themixture out onto a smooth kitchen towel (don't use terrycloth) andsqueeze the heck out of it. If liquid remains in the mixture, theywon't crisp and color properly. Even if you have squeezed the potatoes thoroughly, once you make the batter, liquids maystill collect as the batter sits. So drain the liquid from each spoonful of batter.
Season generously. Use kosher salt and always grind fresh pepper.
Breathe deep. Open the windows and get ready to smell latkes for12 hours. Latke Lady's sister-in-law places bowls of open vinegararound the house to absorb the fry smell. "It's a serious day offrying," Morrow says. "But we always stop for lunch and have tamalesfrom a local spot in LA."
Mix it up. You've got 400 latkes! Serve some of them topped withsour cream and caviar. Serve some as a crisp vehicle for gravy. Switchout the traditional applesauce for a pear or plum sauce. When no one is looking, LatkeLady just dunks hers in sugar. As superheros do.
Classic Potato Latkes
Don't worry if the latkes don't cook to the right color or crispness in the
time stated. Skillets, stoves, and other conditions vary. Just keep cooking
and turning them, until they are right for you.
Makes about 18
INGREDIENTS
2 1/2 cups finely chopped onions, divided
1 large egg
1 tablespoon all purpose flour
1 1/4 teaspoons coarse kosher salt
1 teaspoon baking powder
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
2 pounds russet potatoes, peeled, cut into 3/4-inch cubes
Vegetable oil (for frying)
PREPARATION
Line colander with smooth kitchen towel. Stir 1 1/4 cups onions, egg, flour,
salt, baking powder, and pepper in large bowl to blend.
Place remaining 1 1/4 cups onions in processor; add potatoes. Blend until
potatoes are very finely chopped and mixture is almost a puree (some liquid
is forming). Scrape potato mixture into towel in colander. Wrap towel around
potatoes and squeeze out as much liquid as possible (at least 1 generous
cup). Scrape dry potatoes into egg mixture. Stir until batter begins to
moisten and stick together.
Heat 4 tablespoons vegetable oil in heavy large skillet over medium-high
heat. Drop potato mixture by scant 1/4 cupfuls into skillet; flatten each
latke to 2 1/2-to 3-inch round. Reduce heat to medium. Cook until golden,
about 4 minutes per side. Transfer to large rimmed baking sheet. Repeat,
adding more oil to skillet as needed. DO AHEAD: Latkes can be made 2 hours
ahead. Let stand at room temperature. Or up to 1 day ahead. Cover latkes on
sheets and refrigerate.
To make latkes ahead: Preheat oven to 425 degrees F. Bake latkes until
crisp and deep brown, 5 to 6 minutes per side.
To serve the latkes right away: Preheat the oven to 325 degrees F. Place latkes on a
baking sheet as they come out of the skillet and keep them warm in the oven.
