Where does laksa come from and how did it get its name? (2024)

Laksa is a wildly popular dish, and some people have strong opinions on the best way to prepare it, the tastiest variety, and crucially – where it came from.

The origins of laksa have even been at the centre of a political controversy. In 2009, the Malaysian Minister of Tourism at the time (Ng Yen Yen) attempted to claim ownership for regional dishes, including laksa, and was quoted in the local media as saying that neighbouring countries, including Singapore, had “hijacked their dishes”. This led to strong disagreement, with Ng later claiming she had been misquoted, saying that a study would be conducted on the origins of foods in the country.

I reached out to the Ministry of Tourism, Arts and Culture Malaysia and received the following response, “Please be informed that we have not conducted any study or research on the origin of laksa, a very common and popular dish in Malaysia and the surrounding region.”

At its core, laksa is a spiced noodle soup. While it is mostly associated with Malaysia and Singapore, it is also popular in Indonesia and southern Thailand.

There are numerous varieties, too many to discuss here, therefore this article will focus mostly on two – Singapore laksa and Nyonya laksa.

These two share many common components, in fact one may have led to the development of the other. They both feature a creamy seafood-based gravy, with key components being prawn stock and coconut milk. Both also have a spice paste (called rempah in Malay, meaning spice) that contains ingredients such as chilli, onion, garlic, ginger, lemongrass and galangal. Both are also served the with a sambal, either as a garnish or on the side.

Additionally, an essential fresh herb, for both laksa varieties to be considered truly authentic, is what is commonly referred to as laksa leaf (Persicaria odorata). It is also known as Vietnamese mint although it is not part of the mint family nor does it have a minty taste.

“Quintessential ingredients are Vietnamese mint and torch ginger (Etlingera elatior). Both must be present in order to call any laksa, laksa,” says laksa expert, Nazlina Hussin from Penang. Hussin is the founder of Nazlina Spice Station, an award-winning cooking school, and the author of a comprehensive book on the subject entitled, The Fierce Aunty’s No-nonsense Guide to the Perfect Laksa.

Making either laksa from scratch is a labour of love, and follows the same pattern. If not making fresh noodles, the process begins with making key components: prawn stock, the rempah (spice paste) and the sambal. The gravy is then cooked in stages (spice paste; stock; ingredients such as prawns, fish cake etc; aromatics and coconut milk). Once ready it is ladled over blanched noodles and topped with applicable garnishes.

Any difference in preparation, says Hussin, is more down to whether the noodles are home-made or from a restaurant, against being made by a hawker. The latter often employ short cuts (for time and financial reasons), such as using pre-made components like spice pastes.

As a result of the many shared ingredients and cooking methods, defining which laksa is which from taste alone depends on experience and exposure.

“The differences are subtle, but I believe that someone brought up in a Straits Chinese household will be able to pinpoint one from the other,” says Hussin.

One handy tip: a sandy texture to the gravy is usually an indication of a Singapore laksa due to the addition of dried prawns. In terms of visual clues, although not set in stone, traditional Nyonya laksa has blood co*ckles, and fresh cucumber, while a Singapore laksa has boiled egg.

Hussin has a clear opinion on which came first, with Singapore laksa having a much shorter history, a view that is supported by others. “You can safely argue that Nyonya laksa came first and that Singapore laksa is a simpler version.”

She explains that Nyonya laksa has a long history and was developed by Straits Chinese in Penang, Medan, Malacca and Singapore. “Singapore laksa, also called Katong laksa, came from a hawker who first sold Nyonya laksa in the Katong area of Singapore in the early 1960s, which was soon followed by a number of competing stalls setting up in the same area. This led to the term Katong laksa, now also known as Singapore laksa.”

However she adds that there are complexities within the subject, too. “Even laksa that share the same name can still have differences.”

How laksa got its name is also a complex subject. Many Malays consider the naming of the dish to be derived from the Sanskrit laksha meaning “many” as in many ingredients. However, according to the encyclopedic The Oxford Companion to Food, edited by Alan Davidson, “it comes from the original Persian word for noodle, lakhsha.”

The book goes on to explain that although Iran has not been a heavy consumer of noodles, it has an ancient history of noodle making, going as far to say that there has been “speculation the Chinese learned the idea of noodle-making from the same Persian merchants who introduced the flour mill to them during the Han dynasty”. Arab traders are known to have visited the Malay Peninsula in the 12th century.

While disagreements may still ensue over origin, naming, and who makes the best, there is one thing that fans of the dish all agree on: it is “bloody magnificent” – a description used by a laksa lover, the late Anthony Bourdain.

Curious about Nyonya laksa? Here’s where to try it:

Singapore

328 Katong Laksa: 51 East Coast Road, Singapore

Famous Sungei Road Trishaw Laksa: #02-66 Hong Lim Market & Food Centre, 531A Upper Cross Street, Singapore

Malaysia

Limapulo: Baba Can Cook: 50 Jalan Doraisamy, Chow Kit, Kuala Lumpur

Mews Cafe: 77 Muntri St, George Town, Penang

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