Potatoes (2024)

      RHS Growing Guides

      Our detailed growing guide will help you with each step in successfully growing Potatoes.

      1

      Getting Started

      Section 1 of 7

      Potatoes are a traditional veg plot staple, easy and fun to grow, producing a plentiful crop in summer or early autumn. Whether you’re new to growing potatoes or have been doing it for years, digging up your buried bounty is always a thrill. And eating your first new potatoes of the season, steamed and served with butter or mint, is a highlight of early summer.

      Potatoes (1)

      Harvesting your own potatoesis like digging for buried treasure
      The humble spud (Solanum tuberosum) comes in a surprisingly diverse range of varieties, offering gardeners a choice of flavours and textures not available to supermarket shoppers. Most varieties are classified as either earlies (new potatoes) or maincrops, depending on when they’re ready to harvest. Earlies are further divided into first or second earlies.

      Potatoes are grown from specially prepared ‘seed potatoes’ (small tubers), usually planted in spring. With early varieties, the seed potatoes can be ‘chitted’ (or encouraged to sprout) before planting, to get them off to a head start and produce an earlier crop. As the plants grow, soil can be gradually piled up around the stems, known as earthing up, to bury the developing tubers. If you don’t have room for a whole row of potatoes, you can grow just a few in a small bed or large container. You can even grow a winter harvest by planting in a large tub in late summer, then protecting the plants from frost in a greenhouse or sunny porch.

      Potatoes are usually easy and reliable croppers, but they can be affected by several diseases, the most notorious being the fungal disease blight. However, this is less likely to affect early varieties and is less prevalent in dry summers.

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      2

      Choosing

      Potatoes (2)

      With so many colours and flavours to tempt you, how can you resist growing potatoes?
      There is a huge range of potato varieties to choose from, so it’s well worth trying out some of this rich diversity. There are different flavours, textures (waxy or floury), sizes and colours (white, yellow, pink, red or even purple) to discover, with traditional heritage varieties and new disease-resistant options, for various growing conditions and culinary uses. In fact there are potatoes to suit every taste – far more diversity than you can buy in the supermarket, which is one of the main advantages of growing your own.

      Potato varieties are classed as either earlies or maincrops:

      • Early varieties (first or second earlies) – are ‘new potatoes’, small, sweet and delicious. They’re faster growing, ready to harvest in as little as 12 weeks. The plants take up less space, so are useful in smaller plots, and can be grown in containers. As they’re harvested by midsummer, they free up space to grow another crop, such as courgettes or beans, for the rest of the summer
      • Maincrop varieties are in the ground a lot longer, through to late summer or early autumn. They produce a larger harvest and bigger individual potatoes, ideal for roasting and baking, and can be stored for use in winter

      When choosing, look in particular for varieties with an RHS Award of Garden Merit (AGM) – these performed well in trials, so should grow and crop reliably for you. See our list of AGM fruit and vegand our Recommended Varieties below. You can also see many crops, including potatoes, growing in the veg areas at all the RHS gardens, so do visit to see how they’re grown, compare the varieties and pick up useful tips.

      What and where to buy

      Potatoes are grown from specially prepared ‘seed potatoes’ (small tubers). These are just like potatoes you buy from the supermarket, but they’re certified virus-free, so should give you healthy, vigorous plants. You can buy seed potatoes in late winter and spring in garden centres and online. Mail-order suppliers offer the widest choice of varieties and most allow you to order in advance, as popular varieties may sell out. To grow a Christmas crop in a greenhouse, buy cold-stored tubers in late June or July.

      Recommended Varieties

      Potatoes (3)

      'Jazzy'

      Second early – small oval tubers, but lots of them. Ready 14 weeks after planting. Good in containers.

      The RHS Award of Garden Merit (AGM) helps gardeners choose the best plants for their garden.

      Wild bees and other pollinators are in decline. The Plants for Pollinators initiative helps gardeners easily identify plants that encourage them back into the garden

      'Jazzy'

      Potatoes (4)

      'Kestrel'

      Second early – attractive purple-splashed tubers with delicious flavour. Big crop, disease resistant.

      The RHS Award of Garden Merit (AGM) helps gardeners choose the best plants for their garden.

      Wild bees and other pollinators are in decline. The Plants for Pollinators initiative helps gardeners easily identify plants that encourage them back into the garden

      'Kestrel' 

      Potatoes (5)

      'Lady Christl'

      Second early – pale yellow skin, firm flesh and fantastic flavour. Good eelworm resistance.

      The RHS Award of Garden Merit (AGM) helps gardeners choose the best plants for their garden.

      Wild bees and other pollinators are in decline. The Plants for Pollinators initiative helps gardeners easily identify plants that encourage them back into the garden

      'Lady Christl'

      Showing 3 out of 15 varieties

      3

      Planting

      Potatoes are mainly planted in spring, over several weeks, according to the type of variety:

      • First earlies – plant around late March
      • Second earlies – plant in early to mid-April
      • Maincrops – plant in mid- to late April

      The timing also depends on where you are in the country – plant slightly later in colder regions and earlier in milder ones. To give your potatoes an early start, you can ‘chit’or sprout the tubers before planting (see below), so growth gets underway more quickly.

      There are also a couple of other planting options, to extend the croppingseason:

      • To grow an extra early crop –plant chitted seed potatoes of early varieties at the beginning of March, into large containers in a frost-free greenhouse. Keep them indoors in good light for a crop by about mid-May
      • To grow a winter/Christmas crop – plant prepared (cold-stored) seed potatoes in July or early August, into a large containerin a greenhouse or bright frost-free location. Keeping them indoors also protects them from blight

      Chitting potatoes

      Related RHS Guides

      Chitting potatoes

      Chitting simply means allowing seed potatoes to start sprouting before you plant them. It’s not essential, but is worthwhile with early varieties to get them off to a head start, so they produce an even earlier crop. For both first and second early varieties, start chitting in late January in milder areas and up to early March in colder spots. The process takes four to six weeks – see our guides abovefor full details.If you don’t have the time or space to chit your early seed potatoes, they will still grow perfectly well, but will just take a few weeks longer to crop. There’s no real advantage to chitting maincrop varieties, as they grow over a much longer period.

      Planting in the ground

      Potatoes need an open, sunny growing site, not prone to late frosts, as the young shoots are susceptible to frost damage in April and May. They like rich, fertile soil, so dig in plenty ofgarden compost or well-rotted manure before planting, especially if your soil is light – see our guide to soil types. If possible, do this the previous autumn or winter. You can also apply a general-purpose fertiliser.

      To plant, dig a trench 15cm (6in) deep, place the seed potatoes along the base with the sprouts upwards. Cover with at least 2.5cm (1in) of soil,taking care not to damage the sprouts, and water well. Alternatively, you can dig individual holes for each seed potato.

      • Earlies – plant 30cm (1ft) apart, in rows 60cm (2ft) apart
      • Maincrops – plant 37cm (15in) apart, in rows 75cm (30in) apart

      See our potato planting guideand potato success for more details.Take care to grow potatoes in a different location each year, to avoid any build-up of diseases and other problems in the soil – see our guide to crop rotation.

      With no-dig gardening, you can shallow-plant the seed potatoes, then add a deep layer oforganic matter on top. The crop is then easy to harvest by simply pulling the potatoesout of the mulch.

      Planting in containers

      If you don’t have space in the ground, you can grow potatoes in large containers, where they’ll produce a modest but valuable crop. Early varieties are the most suitable, as the plants are smaller and mature more quickly. Choose a container at least 30cm (12in) wide and deep, and half-fill with 15cm (6in) of peat-free multi-purpose compost. Plant one seed potato per 30cm (12in) of pot diameter, setting them just below the surface. Once shoots start to appear, add more compost gradually as they grow, until the container is full.

      If you have a frost-free greenhouse or similar location to keep the container, you can grow a very early batch of new potatoes or a very late crop in winter.

      Potatoes (6)

      Plant one seed potato in a 30cm pot, position it in full sun and keep it well watered

      4

      Plant Care

      Earthing up potatoes

      Potato plants are traditionally ‘earthed up’, which means mounding up soil around the stems as they grow. This protects the shoots from frost damage in late spring and ensures the developing potatoes aren’t exposed to light, which turns them green and inedible. It’s a simple process – once the shoots are about 23cm (9in) tall, draw soil up around them to form a ridge along the row, leaving just the top 10cm (4in) of the plants visible. As the stems grow taller, repeat the process several times, a few weeks apart. The final height of the ridge should be 20–30cm (8–12in). But if you are unable to earth up, or don’t have time, youshould still get a good crop.

      Follow a similar process for potatoes in containers. From half-full at planting time, gradually add more potting compost as the stems grow, until the surface ends up just below the pot rim.

      Potatoes (7)

      Use a hoe to pile earth up around the potato plants along the row

      Watering

      To ensure a good crop, keep potato plants well watered in dry weather – particularly early on, when the tubers are starting to form. Potatoes in containers need regular and generous watering throughout the growing season, especially if kept in a greenhouse. Even outdoors, the dense foliage will prevent rainwater reaching the compost, so water even during wet weather to make sure you get a decent harvest.

      Feeding

      Maincrop potatoes benefit from a nitrogen-rich fertiliser around the time of the second earthing up.

      Weeding

      Weed regularly for the first month or two after planting, so the young plants don’t have to compete for light, water and nutrients.See ourtips on controlling weeds. Once potato plants are growing strongly and have plenty of leaves, weeding isn’t usually necessary as they will generally shade out any competition. Repeated earthing up also helps to deter weeds.

      Protecting from frost

      Frost can damage young potato plants, so if freezing temperatures are forecast after shoots have appeared, protect them with a clocheor some hessian or straw overnight, or cover with soil or garden compost. With plants in containers, keep them in a frost-free place such as a greenhouse until there’s no longer any risk of frost outdoors.

      5

      Harvesting

      Potatoes (8)

      You can harvest from early summer to autumn, if you grow early and maincrop varieties
      Harvesting potatoes is the really fun part – carefully lifting your plants to discover the size of your underground treasure is a thrill that never fades, however many years you’ve been growing potatoes. But it can be difficult to judge when to harvest, as the crop isn’t visible. So before you dig up your first plant, gently scoop away some of the soil to check on the size of the tubers. Cover them again if you decide they’re not yet big enough.

      Early potatoes and maincrop potatoes mature at different times over the summer. Harvest times can also vary across the UK and from year to year, depending on the weather. But as a general guide:

      • First early varieties should be ready to lift in June and July
      • Second earlies in July and August
      • Maincrop varieties from late August through to October

      With earlies, wait until the flowers open or the buds drop. The tubers should be the size of hens’ eggs. With maincrops, start lifting them in late summer for immediate use. You can leave them in the ground until needed, and they will keep growing larger, but the longer they’re in the soil, the more likely they are to get damaged by slugs.

      Dig up potatoes carefully, inserting your fork at least 30cm (1ft) away from the base of the plant to avoid spearing the tubers. Discard any potatoes that are green, as they’re potentially poisonous. If you only want a few potatoes at a time, try digging down carefully beside a plant with a trowel – you should be able to remove a few individual potatoes without disturbing the plant’s roots, so it can continue growing.

      Potatoes grown in containers are really easy to harvest, without the risk of accidentally damaging them – gently tip out the contents and simply pick out your potatoes by hand.

      Early potatoes are best used as soon as possible after harvesting. Maincrops can either be used fresh or stored for several months and eaten gradually when needed through the winter. If you want to store maincrop potatoes, delay harvesting until the leaves turn yellow, then cut off and remove all the top growth. Wait for 10 days, then dig up the tubers and leave them in the sun for a few hours to dry, then brush off the soil.

      6

      Storing

      Maincrop potatoes usually store successfully for several months. Only store perfect, undamaged potatoes that are fully dry, and brush off any remaining soil. Keep them in a dry, cool, frost-free place, such as a garage, in paper or hessian sacks or on slatted trays in the dark (to prevent sprouting). Check them every few weeks for signs of rotting, and enjoy regularly through the winter months. Aim to finish them before early spring, as they’ll start to sprout and shrivel.

      7

      Problems

      Section 7 of 7

      Potatoes are easy to grow and usually produce a large, reliable crop. However, they can be affected by several diseasesor be eaten by various soil-dwellingcreatures such as slugs, which particularly like to tunnel into maincrop tubers during damp autumn weather. Blight can be a wide-spread problem in some summers, depending on the weather, but you can still usually harvest and eat the crop if you act quickly, although the potatoes won’tbe suitable for storing.

      To avoid the build-up of problems in the soil, grow potatoes in a new position each year – see our guide to crop rotation.Some potato varieties are also less susceptible tocertain diseases.SeeCommon problemsbelow for more advice on tackling the main growing issues.

      Buy potatoes at RHSplants.co.uk

      Every purchase supports the work of the RHS

      Buy potatoes at RHSplants.co.uk

      Potatoes (2024)

      FAQs

      What if I didn't cook my potatoes enough? ›

      If you get to this point and you realize you've undercooked your potatoes, just add a little bit of milk or cream and cook the potatoes over a low heat until the lumps begin to soften. Next time, make sure you cook the potatoes fully by inserting a fork into them before taking them off the heat.

      How many potatoes are enough? ›

      The ultimate potato weight table for feeding a crowd
      Number of peopleTotal potato weightNumber of medium-size potatoes needed
      10.5 lb.1
      42 lbs.4
      63 lbs.6
      105 lbs.10
      Jul 14, 2021

      Why won't my potatoes soften in soup? ›

      Old Potatoes: Very old or stored potatoes can become starchy and may not soften as well during cooking. It's best to use fresh, firm potatoes. Acidic Ingredients: If your soup contained highly acidic ingredients (e.g., tomatoes), it could have affected the texture of the potatoes.

      How to fix undercooked potatoes in the microwave? ›

      If they are baked potatoes, pop them in the microwave for 3 minutes. If they are boiled, leave them for another five minutes.

      Is it okay to eat half cooked potatoes? ›

      Taking a bite or two of a raw potato is okay, but eating a lot of it isn't recommended. Consuming raw potatoes can lead to digestive issues and discomfort. “If someone accidentally eats a small amount of raw potato, they typically don't need to worry unless they start feeling ill,” says Gaffen.

      Is it better to overcook or undercook potatoes? ›

      Tip #3: Don't Overcook or Undercook the Potatoes

      If you overcook them they disintegrate and your potatoes will be soupy. The specific cooking time depends on the size of your potato: a perfectly cooked piece of potato should give no resistance when cut with a knife, but shouldn't crumble into a million pieces.

      How long do I have to boil potatoes for mashed potatoes? ›

      Once boiling, reduce heat, adjusting as needed to maintain a simmer. Cook potatoes until they offer no resistance when pierced: 10–12 minutes for baby potatoes, 15–20 minutes for small potatoes, or 30–40 minutes for large cubed potatoes. Drain potatoes in a colander and let cool 10 minutes.

      What kind of potato is best for mashed potatoes? ›

      The best potatoes for mashed potatoes are a starchy varieties like russet, Idaho or Yukon gold. Starchy potatoes are best for mashed potatoes because they have a fluffy, almost airy texture that breaks down easily.

      How many potatoes do you need for 2 people? ›

      How Many Pounds of Potatoes Per Person You'll Need
      Number of peoplePounds of potatoes
      21 lb.
      42 lb.
      63 lb.
      84 lb.
      2 more rows
      Jan 5, 2024

      What is the fastest way to soften potatoes? ›

      Here's how to do it: Just prick a few holes in a few potatoes with a fork, and microwave on high for 3-4 minutes, turning over once. There you go—super-fast par-cooked potatoes.

      Should you soak potatoes in water before making soup? ›

      Soaking potatoes in water helps remove excess starch. Excess starch can inhibit the potatoes from cooking evenly as well as creating a gummy or sticky texture on the outside of your potatoes. Cold water is used because hot water would react with the starch activating it, making it harder to separate from the potatoes.

      How long does it take for potatoes to soften in broth? ›

      3Pour in the broth and bring it to a gentle boil. Cook for 10 minutes, or until the potatoes start to get tender. Whisk together the flour and the milk, then pour it into the soup and allow the soup to cook for another 5 minutes.

      Should you rinse potatoes in cold water after boiling for potato salad? ›

      In most cases, yes. Rinsing them in cold water cools them so they're a closer temperature to making the potato salad, which you'd want cold. On the other hand, if you're making red potatoes and going to make German potato salad, I'd rinse them in lukewarm water. Th...…

      Should you poke holes in potatoes before microwaving? ›

      Don't Forget to Poke

      These little holes allow steam to escape while the potato is cooking. Forget to poke, and your potato could end up exploding in your microwave from the pent-up steam. It's both messy and a serious dinner let-down.

      Should you cover potatoes when cooking in the microwave? ›

      Step by Step: Microwaving Potatoes

      Cut potato in half lengthwise. Cover with the lid (knob lifted). Cook in the microwave. Potato is done when fork tender.

      Why is the inside of my potato not cooking? ›

      In the anomaly, very-high solid potato little water resides within, hence nothing to permeate around or within the solids' cells to cook the potato, no matter how long exposed to surrounding, external heat medium such as baking or boiling - explaining the hard or crunchy potatoes texture described.

      How do you make sure potatoes are fully cooked? ›

      Check for Doneness

      Simply slide the tip of a knife or skewer into the thickest part of the potato. If it pierces the center easily and meets no resistance, your baked beauties are ready to serve.

      What to do if baked potato isn t done? ›

      If your potato isn't fork-tender after 7 minutes, continue microwaving in 1 minute increments until fully cooked. Let rest for 2 minutes.

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